Botanical illustration of Leylandii
Botanical illustration © thegardening.co
Outdoor Very easy ⓘ Not listed

Leylandii

Cuprocyparis leylandii · also called the leyland cypress

The fastest evergreen screen there is — and the most notorious. Leylandii can put on 75–90 cm a year, so it delivers instant privacy but only stays a good neighbour if you trim it two or three times a season. Crucially, it will not reshoot from old brown wood, so it must never be cut back too hard.

Difficulty 2 / 5 — very fast; needs regular trimming

Not listed by ASPCA

The ASPCA doesn't list leylandii, so we don't stamp it safe. Its foliage and sap can irritate skin on handling. With no database entry we flag the gap honestly rather than guess.

Care at a glance

Everything that matters, in six lines. The detail is further down.

Position

Sun or part shade

Grows almost anywhere, in full sun to part shade. More light gives the densest, most even green screen.

Water

Water until established

Water well through the first two summers. Once away it's drought-tolerant — often too vigorous for its own good.

Hardiness

Fully hardy (H6)

Hardy across the UK and wind-firm, which is why it became the default fast screen for exposed sites.

Soil

Any but waterlogged

Unfussy on most soils as long as they aren't permanently wet. Tolerates poor and chalky ground.

Feeding

Rarely needed

It grows fast enough already. Feed only young plants on poor soil; feeding an established hedge just makes more work.

Trimming

2–3 times, spring–summer

Trim little and often from May to September, never into bare brown wood — it will not reshoot from old wood.

The almanac · Leylandii through the year

What to do, and when

Spring

Growth restarts fast from May. Give the first trim of the year once the flush is underway, and shape the sides before it runs away.

Summer

The main growing season — clip again in June or July, and a final time in late summer. Keep on top of the height now or it gets out of hand.

Autumn

A last light tidy by September, while growth is still active. Avoid cutting into old wood, which won't green up again.

Winter

Growth is slow to stopped; leave trimming alone. A good time to check the hedge isn't shading a boundary or outgrowing its space.

Fast is the point — and the problem

Leylandii exists for one reason: speed. It can add 75–90 cm a year, so it turns an open boundary into a solid green wall faster than anything else. That's exactly why it was planted everywhere, and exactly why it earned its bad name.

Left untrimmed, a leylandii doesn't stop. It keeps racing upward, casting deep shade, drinking the soil dry and, before long, towering over a fence line. Many of Britain's fiercest hedge disputes — and specific 'high hedges' legislation — trace straight back to unmanaged leylandii.

Only plant leylandii if you'll commit to trimming it 2–3 times a year. If you won't, choose a slower hedge — you'll save yourself and your neighbours a lot of grief.

Never cut into brown wood

The golden rule with leylandii: it will not reshoot from old, brown wood. Cut a branch back past the green foliage into the bare inner wood and it stays bare — permanently. There's no recovering a brown patch.

So trim little and often, taking off just the soft green growth each time and keeping the hedge to the size you actually want. If you let it get too wide or too tall, you can't simply cut it hard back to reset it — that leaves ugly dead faces. This is the one big difference from western red cedar, which does regrow from old wood.

Boundaries and neighbours

Because it grows so fast and so tall, leylandii is the classic cause of boundary friction. In England and Wales, councils can act on complaints about evergreen hedges over 2 metres under the high hedges rules, so an unmanaged screen can become a legal headache as well as a gardening one.

Keep it to an agreed, manageable height — many gardeners hold it at around 1.8–2 m — and trim the neighbour's side too. A well-kept leylandii is a perfectly good hedge; it's neglect that causes the trouble. Note too that the foliage and sap can irritate skin, so wear gloves and long sleeves when trimming.

Common problems

Bare brown patches after hard cutting

Leylandii won't reshoot from old wood, so anything cut past the green stays bare for good. Only ever trim into green growth.

Hedge outgrowing its space

It was left untrimmed. Bring it back gradually by clipping the green outer growth two or three times a season; you can't safely slash it hard.

Browning, dieback in patches

Often cypress aphid, which causes brown patches that don't recover, or drought stress. Keep young plants watered and inspect for aphids in spring.

Bare, shaded ground beneath

Vigorous roots and dense shade leave little growing under a leylandii. Keep it lower and narrower to reduce the effect.

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Everything a leylandii hedge needs

Fast screen, frequent trimming, and a firm hand on its height.

Essentials — get these right and it thrives
The plants
Young leylandii plants
Smaller plants establish and knit together faster than large ones — and cost far less for a run.
Links soon
Tools
Hedge trimmer
You'll trim 2–3 times a season, so a decent powered trimmer earns its keep on a long hedge.
Links soon
Protection
Gloves and long sleeves
The foliage and sap can irritate skin, so cover up when clipping.
Links soon
Worth it — genuinely useful, not obligatory
Height control
Extending pole trimmer
Genuinely useful for keeping the top in check safely without a ladder as the hedge gains height.
Links soon
Setting out
String line and canes
A straight planting line makes a fast hedge far easier to keep tidy and even.
Links soon

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How we checked this

Care cross-checked against the RHS. The ASPCA does not list leylandii, so its pet-safety is unconfirmed and we have not stamped it safe. If our page and these sources ever disagree, believe them — and tell us.

Sources: RHS · ASPCA — toxic & non-toxic plants

Last reviewed · August 2026