Botanical illustration of Leek
Botanical illustration © thegardening.co
Outdoor Very easy ⚠ Toxic to pets

Leek

Allium ampeloprasum

The backbone of the winter veg plot — hardy, dependable and standing happily in cold, wet ground when little else does. Sow in spring, transplant into deep holes, and harvest from autumn right through to spring.

Difficulty 2 / 5 — easy, long season

Toxic to cats & dogs — an allium

Leeks (Allium) are in the onion family and toxic to cats and dogs (ASPCA): they damage red blood cells and can cause haemolytic anaemia, with signs often delayed by a day or more. Keep the plants and trimmings away from pets.

⚠ Seriously toxic🐈 Cats🐕 Dogs

Care at a glance

Everything that matters, in six lines. The detail is further down.

Light

Full sun to light shade

An open, sunny site gives the best stems, though leeks tolerate a little shade better than onions do.

Water

Keep steadily moist

Water well after transplanting and through dry spells; leeks are thirstier than onions and won't bulk up in dry ground.

Temperature

Very hardy

Among the hardiest winter crops — stands through hard frost and snow, so you harvest fresh from the ground for months.

Spacing

15 cm apart, 30 cm rows

Transplant seedlings a hand's width apart; wider spacing gives fatter leeks, closer gives more, slimmer ones.

Feeding

Rich soil, feed in growth

Leeks like fertile ground; a general feed through summer keeps them growing steadily for thick, tender stems.

Soil

Deep, fertile, moisture-holding

A deep, rich soil that holds moisture suits them; dig in plenty of organic matter before planting.

The almanac · Leek through the year

What to do, and when

Spring

Sow seed in a seedbed or module trays from March to April. Keep the seedlings watered as they grow to pencil thickness.

Summer

Transplant pencil-thick seedlings from June into deep dibber holes. Water them in and keep the bed weed-free.

Autumn

Early varieties are ready to lift from autumn. Earth up or blanch the stems for a longer white shank.

Winter

The mainstay of the plot — hardy leeks stand through frost. Lift as needed straight from the frozen ground.

The dibber-hole trick for long white stems

The prized part of a leek is the long white shank, and you get it by planting deep. When seedlings reach pencil thickness, make a hole about 15 cm deep with a dibber and simply drop one seedling into each — don't backfill with soil.

Instead, water each hole in, which washes just enough soil over the roots. As the leek grows and fills the hole, the buried portion stays blanched white and tender.

Trimming the seedling's roots and leaf tips by a third before planting helps them stand up in the hole and settle in faster.

Blanch for more of the good bit

To lengthen the white shank still further, draw dry soil up around the stems as they grow — 'earthing up' — a little at a time through autumn. Some growers slip a cardboard collar round each stem instead to keep the blanched part clean.

Take care not to let soil fall down between the leaves, or you'll find grit inside when you cook them. Earth up in stages rather than all at once.

A crop that waits for you

Leeks are the most patient thing on the plot. Once mature they stand in the ground for months without spoiling, so there's no glut to deal with — you lift them one or two at a time, right through the coldest weather.

Choose a mix of early and late varieties and you can be pulling leeks from autumn until the following spring, easing each one up with a fork rather than tugging it out.

Common problems

Leek moth

Larvae tunnel into the leaves and stems, leaving pale windowing and rotting centres. Grow under fine insect mesh from planting to keep the moths off.

Leek rust

Bright orange pustules on the leaves in damp summers. Space plants for airflow, avoid too much nitrogen, and rotate; lightly affected leeks are still edible.

Thin, spindly stems

Usually transplanted too small, too dry, or in poor soil. Wait for pencil-thick seedlings, plant in rich ground and keep them watered.

Bolting

A hard flower stem forms, often after cold or from over-wintered plants left too long. Use it up promptly — the core goes woody once it bolts.

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Everything a leek bed needs

Rich soil, a dibber for deep holes, and a little patience over the winter.

Essentials — get these right and it thrives
The crop
Leek seed or plug plants
Pick early and late varieties for a long harvest; plug plants save raising your own from seed.
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Planting
Dibber
Makes the deep holes that give leeks their long, blanched white stems.
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Soil
Garden compost or manure
Leeks are hungry and thirsty — organic matter feeds them and holds the moisture they need.
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Worth it — genuinely useful, not obligatory
Protection
Fine insect mesh
The single best defence against leek moth and allium leaf miner — worth it where they're a problem.
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Lifting
Garden fork
Eases leeks out of cold, firm winter ground without snapping the stems.
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How we checked this

Care cross-checked against the RHS. Toxicity taken from the ASPCA database, which lists leek (Allium) as toxic to cats and dogs — haemolytic anaemia, often with delayed onset. If our page and these sources ever disagree, believe them — and tell us.

Sources: RHS · ASPCA — toxic & non-toxic plants

Last reviewed · July 2026