Botanical illustration of Hydrangea
Botanical illustration © thegardening.co
Outdoor Very easy ⚠ Toxic to pets

Hydrangea

Hydrangea macrophylla · mophead & lacecap hydrangeas

Huge, generous flowerheads from midsummer to autumn on a shrub that mostly wants two things: moisture and to be left unpruned at the wrong time. The famous blue-or-pink trick is real — but it's the soil's decision, not yours.

Difficulty 2 / 5 — easy-going

Toxic to cats, dogs & horses if eaten

Leaves and flowerheads contain a cyanogenic glycoside. Eating them usually causes vomiting, diarrhoea and lethargy — unpleasant rather than life-threatening, as the ASPCA notes true cyanide poisoning is rare. Keep chewed-off flowerheads away from puppies that shred things. Source: ASPCA.

Care at a glance

Everything that matters, in six lines. The detail is further down.

Position

Part shade

Morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Full sun scorches the leaves unless the soil stays reliably moist.

Water

Never let it bake dry

The name means 'water vessel'. Soak deeply in dry spells, especially in pots — wilting flowerheads are the plant begging.

Soil

Rich, moist, any pH

Acid soil (below ~pH 6) gives blue flowers; alkaline gives pink. White varieties stay white regardless.

Feeding

Light — once in spring

A general slow-release feed in spring is plenty. Overfeeding gives leaves at the expense of flowers.

Pruning

Late spring, lightly

Most flower on old wood: just remove spent heads down to the first fat buds, and a few oldest stems at the base.

Hardiness

Hardy (RHS H5)

The plant is hardy; the flower buds are not. Leave old flowerheads on over winter — they're frost protection.

The almanac · Hydrangea through the year

What to do, and when

Spring

Prune once the worst frosts pass: spent heads back to healthy buds, a couple of old stems to the base. Feed and mulch.

Summer

Water is the whole job now — deep soaks in dry spells, daily checks for pots. Flowers arrive from July.

Autumn

Stop feeding, keep watering until the rain takes over. Resist deadheading — the browning heads are next year's bud insurance.

Winter

Do nothing. The dead flowerheads protect the buds beneath from frost; they come off in spring, not now.

Blue or pink is chemistry, not luck

Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas read your soil's pH like litmus paper. In acid soil, aluminium is available to the roots and the flowers come out blue; in neutral to alkaline soil they come out pink. The plant is healthy either way — it is not a deficiency, and fighting it is mostly a waste of money.

If you're on alkaline soil and your heart is set on blue, the honest route is a pot of ericaceous (acid) compost, watered with rainwater — tap water in hard-water areas slowly undoes the acidity. Blueing compounds poured onto chalky garden soil are a subscription, not a solution.

Quick tell: a hydrangea that turned from blue to muddy pink after you planted it hasn't been mistreated — your soil is simply less acidic than the nursery's compost.

The pruning mistake everyone makes

Most hydrangeas flower on last year's wood. Cut the whole shrub down in autumn or early spring and you've pruned off every flower for the coming summer — the commonest reason a healthy hydrangea refuses to bloom.

The routine is gentler: in mid-to-late spring, take each spent flowerhead back to the first pair of plump buds below it, and cut one or two of the oldest, woodiest stems right to the base to keep the shrub young. That's it. (Paniculata and arborescens types are the exception — they flower on new wood and take a hard spring prune happily.)

Common problems

No flowers

Almost always pruned at the wrong time, or a late frost killed the buds. Prune in late spring only, and leave old heads on over winter.

Wilting despite watering

Pot-grown plants dry out faster than the surface suggests. Plunge the pot in a bucket until bubbles stop, then mulch.

Scorched, crispy leaf edges

Too much afternoon sun for the moisture available. Move it (autumn) or improve mulching and watering.

Flowers turned green

Normal ageing late in the season — nothing is wrong. Some varieties are sold specifically for it.

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Everything a hydrangea needs

Moisture management is most of the job — spend there, not on colour chemistry.

Essentials — get these right and it thrives
The plant
Hydrangea, 3–5L pot
Buy in flower if colour matters to you — labels promise, flowers prove.
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Mulch
Bark or garden compost mulch
A 5cm mulch ring holds the moisture this plant lives on.
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Watering
Watering can or hose lance
Deep soaks at the base beat daily sprinkles.
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Worth it — genuinely useful, not obligatory
Pot
Large pot + ericaceous compost
The only honest route to blue flowers on alkaline soil.
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Tool
Sharp secateurs
Clean spring pruning cuts, and the stems get woody fast.
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How we checked this

Care guidance cross-checked against the Royal Horticultural Society and NC State Extension. Toxicity confirmed against the ASPCA database (cyanogenic glycoside — vomiting, diarrhoea, depression; cyanide intoxication rare). If our page and these sources ever disagree, believe them — and tell us.

Sources: RHS · NC State Extension · ASPCA

Last reviewed · July 2026