Botanical illustration of Cherry
Botanical illustration © thegardening.co
Outdoor Moderate ⚠ Toxic to pets

Cherry

Prunus avium

A beautiful spring-blossoming tree that rewards you with sweet or acid cherries in midsummer. The growing is straightforward on a modern dwarf rootstock — the real battle is getting to the fruit before the birds do.

Difficulty 3 / 5 — needs netting from birds

Toxic to cats, dogs & horses (stones & leaves)

Cherry (Prunus) is listed as toxic to cats, dogs and horses on the ASPCA database. The leaves, stems and stone pits contain cyanide-releasing compounds — the ripe flesh is fine, but the pits and wilting foliage are the hazard. Keep pets from the stones and prunings.

🐈 Cats🐕 Dogs🐎 Horses

Care at a glance

Everything that matters, in six lines. The detail is further down.

Light

Full sun

Give it the sunniest, most sheltered spot you have — sun ripens the fruit and helps the wood harden for next year.

Water

Keep young trees watered

Water well for the first two or three summers while it establishes. Erratic watering as the fruit swells can cause splitting.

Temperature

Fully hardy

Hardy across the UK, but the early blossom is vulnerable to frost — a warm wall or fleece on cold nights protects the crop.

Humidity

Open, airy site

Good airflow keeps fungal problems down. Avoid damp, still corners where the leaves stay wet.

Feeding

Mulch in spring

A general fertiliser in early spring and a mulch of compost. Don't overfeed with nitrogen — you'll get leaf at the expense of fruit.

Soil

Fertile, well-drained

Deep, fertile soil that never waterlogs. Cherries hate sitting wet, so improve heavy clay before planting.

The almanac · Cherry through the year

What to do, and when

Spring

Blossom appears — watch the forecast and throw fleece over the tree on frosty nights. Feed and mulch as growth starts.

Summer

Fruit ripens from June into July. Net against birds before the cherries colour up, then pick as they sweeten.

Autumn

Leaves fall and the tree goes dormant. Clear fallen fruit and leaves to reduce next year's disease. Plant bare-root trees from now.

Winter

Fully dormant — but do NOT prune now. Bare-root planting continues in mild spells; firm in any trees loosened by frost.

Choose the rootstock, not just the variety

An old cherry on a vigorous rootstock becomes a 10-metre tree you can never net or pick. Modern dwarfing rootstocks like Gisela 5 keep a tree to a manageable 2.5–3m, so it fits a normal garden and you can actually reach the fruit.

Many modern varieties are self-fertile — 'Stella', 'Sunburst' and 'Cherokee' among them — so a single tree will crop. Older varieties often need a compatible partner nearby to set fruit, so check the label before you buy.

Buying tip: for most gardens, a self-fertile variety on Gisela 5 rootstock is the sweet spot — one tree, no pollination partner, and a size you can net.

Prune in summer, never in winter

This is the golden rule for all Prunus. Pruning in winter opens the tree to silver leaf and bacterial canker, two serious diseases that enter through cuts when spores are active. Prune in late spring or summer instead, when the wounds heal fast.

Keep it light. Remove dead, damaged or crossing branches and open the centre so light and air get in. A fan trained against a warm wall is the classic way to grow cherries in a smaller space — and it makes netting far easier.

Beating the birds

Blackbirds and starlings will strip a tree in a day, often just before the fruit is perfectly ripe. Netting is the only reliable answer — drape it before the cherries start to colour, and make sure it's held clear of the fruit so birds can't peck through.

A dwarf tree or a wall-trained fan is far easier to net than a full standard. If you can walk around it with a net, you can protect the crop.

Common problems

Split fruit

Heavy rain after a dry spell, as the cherries swell fast and the skins can't keep up. Steady watering in dry weather reduces it; there's little to do once heavy rain hits at ripening.

Silver leaf or dieback

A fungal disease entering through wounds — leaves turn silvery and branches die back. Prune only in summer, cut out affected wood well below the damage, and clean tools between cuts.

Blossom killed by frost

A late frost blackens the flowers and you lose the crop. Plant in a sheltered spot away from frost pockets and fleece the tree on cold spring nights.

Aphids curling the leaves

Cherry blackfly cluster on the shoot tips and curl new leaves. Squash early colonies, encourage ladybirds, and avoid heavy nitrogen feeding that pushes soft growth.

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Everything a cherry tree needs

A sunny sheltered spot, the right rootstock, and netting before the birds notice.

Essentials — get these right and it thrives
The tree
Self-fertile cherry on dwarf rootstock
One tree crops on its own and stays a size you can net and pick.
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Compost
Garden compost or well-rotted manure
Mulched round the base each spring to feed the roots and hold moisture.
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Netting
Fruit cage or bird netting
The single most important bit of kit — no net, no cherries.
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Worth it — genuinely useful, not obligatory
Frost protection
Horticultural fleece
Thrown over the blossom on frosty spring nights, it can save the whole crop.
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Support
Tree stake and tie
A young tree needs staking for its first few years to root firmly.
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How we checked this

Care cross-checked against the RHS. Toxicity taken from the ASPCA database, which lists Prunus (cherry) as toxic — cyanogenic leaves, stems and pits; ripe flesh is fine. If our page and these sources ever disagree, believe them — and tell us.

Sources: RHS · ASPCA — toxic & non-toxic plants

Last reviewed · July 2026