An overgrown shrub is often worth saving — an established root system will push out new growth far faster than a new plant from the garden centre. But "cut it right back" is only safe advice for some shrubs. For others it's a death sentence. So before you reach for the saw, find out which group yours is in.
In pictures
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2Some shrubs take a hard cut to low stumps in one go. -
3Never cut lavender back into bare wood (left) — replace an old plant instead (right). -
4After renovating, mulch — but keep it clear of the stems.
01At a glance
- Deciduous shrubs: renovate while dormant, between November and March.
- Evergreens: in spring — or just after flowering if they flower in spring.
- Tools: loppers, a pruning saw, gloves, eye protection.
- Expect: shrubs that flower on last year's growth may not flower for a year or two afterwards.
02First: which group is your shrub in?
Can take a hard cut in one go. Berberis, spiraea, deutzia, cornus, ribes, fuchsia, hazel (Corylus), leycesteria, philadelphus, cotinus and willow (Salix). Cut all stems to about 10–20cm from the ground, or to low branches at 20–45cm.
Evergreens that tolerate severe pruning to near ground level. Spotted laurel (Aucuba), box, camellia, choisya, holly, laurels and yew.
Better renovated in stages. Japanese maple, witch hazel (Hamamelis), magnolia — and anything you're not sure about.
Don't renovate — replace. Lavender and heather don't regrow reliably from old wood and are generally replaced after ten years or so. Cistus is the same. Most conifers, including leylandii, won't regrow from bare old wood either — yew is the notable exception.
03Staged renovation, over three years
Year 1 1. Remove dead and damaged wood. 2. Take out older stems, aiming to remove up to half the shrub. 3. Cut the remaining older stems back by half, to a vigorous side-shoot or a healthy outward-facing bud.
Year 2 1. Thin out the new shoots if there are too many. 2. Shorten the remaining older branches.
Year 3 1. Remove any remaining old stems. From now on, go back to normal pruning for that shrub.
04Aftercare, every year
Feed and mulch in spring — a layer at least 5cm and ideally 7.5cm deep, kept clear of the stems. Water in dry spells while the new growth establishes.
05Mistakes to avoid
- Cutting below the graft on a grafted shrub. Watch for shoots from below the graft union and remove them.
- Hard-pruning a lavender, heather, cistus or conifer and hoping.
- Giving up after one bare spring. Renovated shrubs can take a season to respond.
How we checked this
Every care and safety claim on this page is verified against horticultural and veterinary sources.
Sources: RHS — Shrubs: renovation · RHS — Shrubs: pruning evergreens · RHS — How to grow cistus · RHS — How to grow conifers · RHS — Mulches and mulching
Checked 1 October 2026. If our advice ever conflicts with the RHS, believe them and tell us.