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Notebook · Guide 1 October 2026 · lawns

Autumn lawn care: what your lawn actually needs (probably less than you think)

Scarifying, aerating, overseeding and autumn feed — when each is worth doing, when it isn't, and the 7°C soil rule for sowing grass seed in October.

Close-up of a lawn surface with a spring-tined rake pulling out a layer of brown thatch and moss from between the grass blades.
1Scarify: a spring-tined rake pulls out thatch and moss.

Autumn is the lawn's big repair season — warm soil, more rain, less foot traffic. It's also when garden centres sell the most lawn products. The honest version: most lawns need some of these jobs some years, not all of them every year. Here's how to tell.

In pictures

  1. A garden fork pushed vertically into a lawn, with a neat grid of spike holes behind it.
    2Aerate: push a garden fork in at regular intervals.
  2. A thin patch of lawn being overseeded by hand, seed scattering evenly on raked soil.
    3Overseed thin patches on loosened soil.
  3. A lawn with fallen autumn leaves being raked into a neat pile, with a wire leaf-mould cage nearby.
    4Rake leaves off the lawn — and make leaf mould with them.

01At a glance

  • When: September and October, while the soil is warm and moist but not waterlogged. Don't work on it when it's very wet, very dry or frosty.
  • Tools: spring-tined rake, garden fork, a mower with an adjustable height.

021. Scarify — only if there's thatch

Thatch is the layer of dead grass and moss that builds up at the base of the lawn. The RHS test: if you can't see the soil between the grass blades, it's time to scarify. Rake firmly with a spring-tined rake to pull the thatch out. Mossy lawn? Scarifying in October or early November works well.

032. Aerate — every few years, not every year

  • Spiking with a garden fork every two to three years is enough for most lawns. Push in as deep as you can, about 10–15cm apart, and wiggle.
  • Hollow-tining (removing small cores of soil) is for compacted, clay or waterlogged lawns — every three to four years.

043. Top-dress

After aerating, brush a top dressing into the holes — about 2–3kg per square metre. The RHS mix is three parts sandy loam, six parts sharp sand and one part compost.

054. Overseed thin patches

  • Rate: usually 15–25g of seed per square metre, or as the packet says.
  • Timing: September is safest. October works in milder areas, as long as the soil is at least 7°C. In colder areas or a cold spell, wait until March or April.

065. Feed — only if it needs it

If the grass is growing poorly, an autumn feed rich in potassium and phosphorus helps hardiness and root growth. Don't use a summer feed now — too much nitrogen pushes soft growth into winter.

076. Mowing and leaves

  • Raise the cutting height. Domestic lawns can be left up to about 40mm in autumn. Never take off more than a third of the height at once.
  • Mow less often, only in dry spells — never when the grass is wet or frozen.
  • Rake up fallen leaves. They block light and smother the grass. (Turn them into leaf mould.)
  • Keep off frosty grass. Frozen blades break and leave brown footprints.
Save your money
A spring-tined rake scarifies a small lawn. Hire a machine for a big one.
A garden fork is an aerator. No need for spiked shoes or a dedicated tool.
Skip the mosskiller. The RHS says there's no need for a synthetic mosskiller, and no product kills moss permanently. Moss is a sign of conditions — shade, compaction, poor drainage.
Don't feed a lawn that's growing fine.

How we checked this

Every care and safety claim on this page is verified against horticultural and veterinary sources.

Sources: RHS — Lawn care in autumn · RHS — October: lawns · RHS — November: lawns · RHS — Repairing lawns · RHS — Lawn mowing · RHS — Moss on lawns

Checked 1 October 2026. If our advice ever conflicts with the RHS, believe them and tell us.