Your alocasia was putting out new leaves almost weekly in summer, as the RHS says they can. Now it's October, and a leaf has yellowed, then another, and you're wondering if it's dying. Usually it isn't. The RHS says alocasias go into a winter dormancy, may drop foliage while they do, and that this is "nothing to worry about". Your job is to make sure the leaf loss is dormancy and not cold, rot or spider mite, and then to stop killing it with kindness.
01At a glance
- Some winter leaf loss is normal: the RHS says to let the plant go dormant, cooler and drier.
- Keep it above 10°C at all times: the RHS's firm line. Growth slows well before that.
- Water much less: wet compost in a cold, resting plant is what rots it.
- Check under the leaves: red spider mite thrives in warm, dry, heated rooms.
- Don't bin a bare pot: the underground stem usually reshoots in spring.
02Dormancy, cold or rot?
Normal dormancy. Growth slows from autumn. The oldest leaves yellow one at a time and die back, while the stems and compost stay firm. The University of Wisconsin Extension notes that elephant ears produce new leaves continually through the growing season, and that older leaves can be removed as they die. Losing the oldest leaf as a new one opens is ordinary turnover. Losing several with nothing new coming is a plant winding down.
Cold. Decline comes fast after the plant has sat somewhere cold, such as a windowsill at night or near an outside door. The RHS wants alocasias above 16°C in the growing season and above 10°C at all times. NC State Extension says not below about 16°C, and Wisconsin says they falter after long spells below 10°C. Between 10°C and 16°C, expect it to slow and rest. Below 10°C you're risking damage.
Root or stem rot. The base of the stems goes soft or mushy, and the compost stays wet for days and may smell sour. NC State notes overwatering can cause root rot and bacterial stem rot. This is the one to act on fast.
03Is it spider mite?
Red spider mite is a common pest of alocasias, and the RHS says low humidity attracts it. It's easy to blame dormancy for mite damage.
- Look for: fine pale speckling on the upper leaf, and tiny yellowish-green mites underneath. The RHS suggests a ×10 hand lens to see the mites, their white cast skins and eggs. Heavy attacks leave fine webbing.
- What it does: leaves lose their colour, dry up and drop. That looks a lot like winter decline.
- What helps: rinse the leaves, including the undersides, and raise the humidity. The RHS says spraying with water and keeping humidity high lowers the risk but won't clear an attack by itself. The predatory mite Phytoseiulus persimilis is its main non-chemical control.
04Winter care, step by step
- Find a warm, bright spot. Bright, indirect light, away from cold glass and away from radiators, which dry the air. Above 10°C at all times. Warmer will keep more leaves.
- Cut watering right back. The RHS says to reduce watering to a minimum while dormant. Overwatering then can rot the roots. Water only when the compost has dried well down, and keep it barely moist, never wet.
- Stop feeding until growth restarts in spring.
- Raise humidity sensibly. Group it with other plants or stand it on a tray of damp gravel. Both the RHS and our profile name dry air as the cause of crispy edges and mite.
- Cut off dead leaves at the base once they've fully yellowed, as the RHS advises. Wear gloves.
05If it loses every leaf
Don't throw it away. Alocasias grow from a fleshy underground stem: the RHS calls it a rhizome, Wisconsin a corm. It often survives with no leaves at all.
- Check it's firm. Gently feel the base. Firm means alive. Soft and mushy means rot.
- Keep it warm and barely moist, as our alocasia profile advises. It shouldn't be wet, and it shouldn't be bone dry for months.
- Wait for spring. The RHS says fresh leaves appear once growth resumes. Then increase watering and restart feeding.
- Look for offsets. Small new plants around the base can be separated and potted up in spring.
Alocasia sap can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming. Before handling it or placing it where children or pets can reach, check the safety flags on our alocasia profile.
How we checked this
Every care and safety claim on this page is verified against horticultural and veterinary sources.
Sources: RHS — Alocasia growing guide · RHS — How to grow alocasia · RHS — Glasshouse red spider mite · NC State Extension — Alocasia × amazonica · University of Wisconsin Extension — Elephant ears: Colocasia, Alocasia and Xanthosoma
Checked 8 October 2026. If our advice ever conflicts with the RHS, believe them and tell us.